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Kardeşim kolay gelsin potosyumetre kaçlik ve nereye takiyoruz teşekkürler

Nice video! I have a similar controller with 3 connection points. In, Out and Com. I would like to power it with 220VAC. Do both hot leads connect to the In connection?

My treadmill motor has 3 phase wires and 1 for thermo. Then 2 other wires that aren’t labeled. Is this a DC/AC motor I have? The label doesn’t say

Nice job 🎉

This is great, I used it to replace the conductive rubber on my cheap ass 4 octave keyboard, so far I made 1 octave, works awesome and sounds more metal. Thank you!

Mike - I know vid is 7 years old & you likely art seeing comments anymore. Wish I'd seen this before my experimentation. Kudos to you. Like me, you realized that no matter what sorta band saw you have, it's not good for the entire weight of the saw hanging from those 2 small machine screws threaded into a magnesium alloy saw frame. No other vids I was at the time considered this important issue. YOU DID. Mine ended up similar to yours Mike, but I used longer horizontal square tube on the bottom (like sled legs) with the vertical legs coming up from there.Those bottom runners extend about 8" beyond the back of the top plate. I welded a horizontal cross piece to that extension and horizontal screw adjustable plate to take the weight of the saw off of the shoe screws. I like your method better. Yours creates much more portability with the ports band never having to remove the shoe taking saw on and off. Great project. Thanks for the ideas.

Good Robin!

Was just watching your treadmill motor mods and ran into this one. That saw is one of my most used machine's in my shop now ! You do great work man. Thought Id show off my build .. .. . ruclips.net/video/ZDNio9feg1o/видео.htmlsi=8Mz_VGu9iRY_9VHp Any how Im looking at replacing a motor for my small Harbor Freight drill press to a DC. Using it for tinny stuff but also adding a faseting table on the pully side up top. .. faseting as in stone shaping. You have the best info on DC modification...Thanks!!❤

Can this be used with a foot throttle?

Wish someone had information to use the MLH0913I controller from a Johnson Horizon treadmill

This is great 👍😊

Amateur hour at best. You have no safety with AC current. You hook up AC to a DC motor and ruin it. You have no circuit breaker between SCR and bridge rectifier. You have no DC choke between bridge rectifier and motor. If you want to see how this is done properly, see Dazecars RUclips video series on this. To measure the impedance of your motor, turn the pot until the motor just start turning. Then measure the resistance in the pot. Usually 140k Ohms for treadmill motor. You can break this up into a 120k and 20k Ohm pot, wire them in series and get course and fine control of motor speed.

That absolutely works 100%! I'm going to gobble up all the treadmills in Oregon now.

❤ nice information

Nice Job, very straight forward. Thank You!

Thanks for sharing.

Wow that is what I have been looking for by not altering the saw at all thank you brother bless you now I know what I’m going to do with mine

Hi I ordered the parts i put it in my treadmill and i use it in low power ( just for walk ) but after 10 min the motor become smelling bad after 15 min smoke getout from motor Any advice?

Right off the bat… bores us with consumption of more $$ in cut-off wheels and cleanup than fresh remnants would cost.. and made a huge mess. Just kidding, nice table.

Hi, I have a 180 volt, 3 hp, 15 amp DC treadmill motor that runs on 220/ 230 volt single phase. Would you have a diagram on how to wire this? I already have a 10,000 watt SCR, a large rectifier, 220V switch, 1- AC ferrite choke, etc. but with having 2-110 volt legs and 1- ground wire I am struggling to figure it all out. Thanks for any help you may provide.

Good video, however seems to have given a lot of people the impression that this is actually 'good', for the motor. 120v AC rectified by a Full Bridge Rectifier is going to output 120v DC that is pulsing from 0 to 120v 120 time a second or generically 120hz. A good visual showing the standard AC waveform, the rectified waveform, and then the rectified with capacitor 'smoothing' is here, just ignore voltages. 4.bp.blogspot.com/-2hY5shcHzz8/VrgCjDKI9NI/AAAAAAAAF7w/rrYCh2sXqIk/s1600/AC%2Bto%2BDC%2BFull%2BWave%2BRectifier%2BVoltage%2BTime%2BDiagram.jpg With just a FBR in place, your motor is being driven by a signal from 0 to 120v and back to 0 120 times a second vs straight 120v DC current 100% of the time. That means the majority of the time the motor is not getting the voltage and current it is expecting or needs to work as designed. So, expect it work at about 65% efficiency insofar as speed/torque. You could simply add a couple of $2 capacitors which will provide the 'smoothing' voltage/current if A) its not got enough grunt, B) you want it to probably last longer/closer to its designed lifecycle. Unless its used daily/often, most motors run like this should still run decently for multiple years.

with voice made a vedeo than batter

100% silicone caulk is the only thing that sticks to silicone rubber.

(spoiler warning) that awkward silence when the flywheel came off was hilarious.

Just put a 350K ohm resistor across the 500K ohm pot to make it a 200K ohm pot.

what an upgrade, my dude! well done.

First off thanks for not torturing us with awful loud hard rock music. I learned some things watching this, you have an easier way of doing some things than how I do it. Your craftsmanship is excellent thank you

Gdybym miał takie narzędzia ... 🙂

Don't do no final welding until all is tacked and squared up...GEEZ WHAT A GOON, I'D FIRED YOU BEFORE 1ST. BREAK

What do I do with the two blue wires for the overheat circuit ? Appears my stock Potentiometer stopped working 4 turn-ons in...smh this is a replacement for my first controller that the output didn't work. Dont seem to be quality.

You could turn that 20$ into a huge profit. I'm new to knife making. I bought a cheap harbor freight 1×30. As I get better I'm definitely going to need more power. Anyways you did a great job brother1

This saw is a beast. It does eat batteries ruclips.net/user/postUgkxkgtf23NRld6bKLCxmOpLdl8xZmfz8Wbq but I can live with that.What is troubling is the fact that blades don't seem to last more than three cuts and are no longer blades.The saw, itself, is pretty much perfect... and $90 overpriced, at least.

You are making it out of scrap?? Scrap that is cheap new to begin with?? When it is done, which I am not going to wait around to see, it will look build from scrap. "Well, she is nice, and pretty cute, BUT she makes her own cloths..."

Thank you so much for showing me how to clean my remote you are an angel. There was moisture in in my remote.i took it apart an dried it out. You saved me at least $15.00. dollars. You are a blessing thank you thank you thank you.😊😊😊❤❤😂❤❤❤

Interesting video. Although you recognize that your controller is a triac unit, you keep referring to it as an scr controller which may be confusing to those new to this topic. An SCR controller already puts out phase controlled DC so it wouldn't require a bridge rectifier between it and the dc motor. A triac controller must have a bridge rectifier between it and the dc motor. You tried to control your bandsaw with your triac controller. Your bandsaw motor is probably a regular induction motor and these absolutely should not be controlled by just varying the voltage, the motor will soon burn out. The band saws induction motor may be speed controlled by varying the supply frequency, although you have to also control the current as well, as it will overy heat and probably burn out if you don't. The simply controller that you demonstrate would be great to control any tool that can run on ac or dc. Corded drills, grinders and saws, all fall into this group, as there field and armature windings are connected in serious. Series connected windings provide great torque but thier speed control sucks. Thanks for sharing.

What a creative solid build! Thank you! Very inspirational! I have a question...what was the purpose of the strap spot welded to the bottom of the table? Was it just to bare against the foot plate of the saw to keep the saw from twisting? Also, was the strap that holds the saw tight to the bottom of the table bearing against the blade guard or the back handle of the saw? I don't have a saw (yet) so can't visualize it. You seemed to have put something in between that strap and the the gauard...perhaps a shim or some kind of padding? I would be worried that the saw could work its way backwards out of the table. Obviously, this must not be an issue for you. Sorry for the wordy comment/ questions... Thank you again! You have a great little shop there and obviously some great skill!

Interesting !

I HAVE A TREAD MILL MOTOR THAT IS SPECT AT DC 100-120V 600W CURRENT 3.5A CAN I USE THE SAME CONTROLLER YOU HAVE THERE ?

Nice job. I have about the same sized piece of plate and watching this will help me a lot. I also subbed. Thanks for sharing!

I really hate it when a person doesn't verbalize teaching you instructions about something . I like to listen to instructions while I'm doing my house work. Plus it doesn't pay homage to a person that's blind and may need to listen

I like idea But it would've been better if you talked the way through it

Good stuff. I need to copy this for a corning machine. I need high torque and variable RPM. This will work perfectly.

Hawk isn't intimidated.

I like the properly sized table for the saw. All the others I've seen are small. Great job. Thanks for sharing.

That Workout Bench, really worked out well.

Через неделю всё это отлетит к чёртовой матери. Токопроводящий лак - вот это решение.

Never leav the lid off a tin of contact adhesive, you might become addicted!

Судя по наличию инструмента - можно было сделать и лучше , толку что серьга из алюминия , какбы ровная и толстая , в то время как ригель из проф трубы толщиной 1,5 мм. 😊, и как так ума хватило стягивать болтом ригель с серьгой ))) без внутреннего упора , после десятого закручивания его поведет и лента будет портить заготовки

What I really like about your design is the clamping bar on the bottom, and its universal for other saws. In addition, the clamp on the bottom securely holds the saw solid. Many other builds will use the weight of the saw hanging from the 2 screws . Not so good.. even the expensive swag table will rest the whole weight hanging on the screws. I think it's a much better design than most on RUclips. Now you just need to incorporate a miter groove.

Watching few videos , quite few of you guys great designers!! Crack me up , hey you got a big one over there!! Smile… I like your table setup!